Sunday, 12 January 2014

Day 9 - Caye Caulker - Island of white powder III

“We don’t need them, those black people, we don’t need them” – racist Mexican gangster


This was our last night on Caye Caulker; during the 4 days we had spent here I had developed mixed feelings towards this place.  We had planned to go to this pizza restaurant owned by a friendly Canadian guy for our last night, nothing particularly heavy as we had to catch the morning ferry to mainland Belize the next day.  What started as a normal quiet night ended up being something very different.

We passed the pizza restaurant on our first night whilst we were walking around trying to find a hotel.  “Come to my place guys, I will make you a nice pizza!” the Canadian owner hollered at us across the street from his restaurant. 

When we did finally come on our last night he seemed grateful “ah, you guys finally came, come out of the rain and have a seat”.  He came and sat with us bringing a bottle of tequila from behind the bar.  After a few shots and a bit of small talk he left to man the bar.

The pizzas here were very expensive with one medium sized pizza costing more than our 2 hour ferry ride back to the mainland Belize.  However considering we had already done a shot with the friendly owner it would have been rude to leave.  Maybe that is why he does it.

Meet Sean


It wasn’t long before a local guy came and introduced himself.  “Hey, what is happening guys, I am Sean” he said whilst he sat himself down at our table.  Sean was afro-Caribbean with short hair and a baseball cap.  He looked pretty average other than slightly bloodshot eyes and a few missing teeth.  It wasn’t long before the conversation steered itself towards drugs.  “We are alright Sean, thanks” said Myles but that wasn’t the end of the interaction. 

Sean was out with 2 backpackers who he had befriended on a previous night and was trying to organize a night out with all of us.  “I will introduce all of you guys in a minute” he said whilst he got up and left to rejoin his other friends.

Meet "Marvin"


As soon as Sean left another local guy took his place.  I can’t remember his name but it began with M so I will call him Marvin.  “Heyyyy what’s up guyyys” he said in his weak spaced out voice.  He was a mixture of afro-Caribbean and Rastafarian with medium length slightly dreaded hair and a red tee-shirt. 

After he found out our names he made a big deal out of the fact that all our names began with the letter M.  “heeeyyy.... Mmmm” he said whilst pointing at Myles and I.  He clearly wasn’t all there mentally.  A walking advertisement of how drugs can fry your brain.  However he did seem friendly enough.  

He said that he was basically Sean’s boss and dealer and that all the drugs Sean had came from him.  Whilst saying this he produced a large bag of cocaine.  “I want to talk to you outside in a few minutes, I want to have a private discussion” he said pointing at me.  Out of Myles and I he had singled me out with special interest.  I was surprised that the Canadian owner of the pizza restaurant had turned a blind eye to all of this.

Meet "Jimmy" and "Sven"

After Marvin left Sean returned with a Canadian guy called Jimmy and a Finnish guy called Sven.  Again these are all made-up names because I can’t remember their real ones.

Jimmy was a medium height skinny guy wearing a vest and baseball cap with curly hair sticking out either side.  He was generally nice enough but seemed a bit dense.  Sven was your stereotypical Finnish guy with pale skin, blue eyes and very short albino blonde hair.  He seemed quite intelligent but was obsessed with drugs and techno music, two things that don’t interest me.

After a brief conversation Marvin called me over from outside the restaurant.  It was our “private discussion time”.  I left the restaurant and Marvin was around the corner a few steps into a dark alleyway.  “What do you want?” I said knowing that he was obviously going to offer me drugs. 

He produced the bag of cocaine and scooped out a large heap.  “Try this man, free of charge” he said with a big friendly smile on his face.  I felt like he was treating me more as a friend than a potential customer.  “No thanks Marvin, you know I don’t do drugs”.  He looked a bit surprised that I turned it down but he was still smiling.  He took the spoon and inhaled the mound himself.  I left the alleyway and never saw Marvin again.

Dark side of the island


When I got back Sean had finished organizing our night out.  The plan was to go to Mermaid bar which was a bar for locals and have a few games of pool, after we would go to I and I Reggae Bar where Sean wanted to introduce us to some local girls he knew.  “I got these 4 stunning girls out tonight, you should meet them...” he said with a big grin on his face.  “I think we are alright thanks Sean”.  But we did agree to go out that night, more out of curiosity and that fact we didn’t have any other plans.

The Mermaid bar was very different from anywhere I had been to on the island.  We were in the Caribbean and everywhere here had that Caribbean feel to it.  However the Mermaid bar was distinctly Hispanic; it was just like being in a bar in Mexico.  There were a lot of Hispanic people in the bar as well which was odd as I hadn’t seen any since arriving on the island.  Where have all these Mexicans been hiding over the last 4 days?  There were 2 pool tables surrounded by some old worn out sofas.  Sean had organized some double games between us and some locals.

Whilst waiting for my turn one of the guys in the bar came and sat down next to me and introduced himself.  He was a short, slightly stocky heavily tattooed Hispanic guy wearing a white vest and a silver crucifix around his neck.  As always the offer of drugs quickly came up in conversation.  After that the conversation steered towards gangs.  “You know the mafia, the cribs, the bloods?  In Mexico yeah?  We have that here too!” he said boastfully.

Coming from a middle class suburban upbringing I knew next to nothing about gangs or gang culture.  The one sided conversation continued; “We need you lot here, tourists, we need you on this island... we don’t need them though” he says pointing at Sean “we don’t need them blacks here”.  The conversation had turned deeply sour, not like it was much of a conversation to begin with.

I was sat next to a deeply racist Mexican gangster.  Looking around the bar it didn’t seem like he was the only gangster either.  I suddenly felt quite uncomfortable being here.  I felt like bailing but Sean came back and declared that we were moving onto I and I.   

We didn't really feel like clubbing any more but considering I and I was just across the road from our hotel Myles and I decided we would go for one more drink.

“The girls are at I and I now, you are going to love them” Sean said to the group with a big smile across his face.

Let's get out of here


I and I.  I had been to this place before and it was a relief to be here and not in the dodgy Mermaid Bar.  Myles and I went to get a beer whilst Sean led Jimmy and Sven to the dance floor.  We agreed this would be our last beer before making our escape. 

The fact that neither of us do drugs meant we had begun to drift away from the group.  “Come on guys, I want you to meet these girls” Sean had come back from the dance floor to get us.  Sean was growing on me a bit, although I found him annoying he did care about us having a good night.  I still didn't trust him though.

He led us to the edge of the dance floor and pointed at these girls.  Jimmy was already there dancing with his girl.  It only took one look to know that she wasn’t old enough to be at this bar.  “Mate, she is no older than 16” Myles said to me.  I knew Jimmy wasn’t very street smart but I didn’t think he was that much of an idiot.

“Right, this is just getting weird now, let’s get out of here” Myles turned and said to me.  This night had started off a strange and had become just become weird.  “Yeah, let’s go” I agreed with Myles and we left without saying good bye to our new friends.

So overall this had been a weird night, I had been offered a frightening amount of free drugs, spoke to a racist Mexican gangster and been offered some underage girls.  Travelling is not all about sightseeing during the day.  Experiencing the night culture of a place is just as important, although you do have to be careful.  Getting too drunk or high can land you in a world of trouble.

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